Monday, April 28, 2008
Homer, AK, On the Job
April 21st and it’s snowing ..... 4" on the ground mid day. It’s our first day off after a week of orientation when the sun shone and temperatures reached the low 50's. April in Alaska!
Today’s snow, however, is beautiful and we’ve enjoyed a long exploratory walk around town with breakfast in a local café, birding in the slough beside the visitors center where we were delighted to see the sandhill crane pair who have been there off and on this week and may be the same two who fledged two colts there last year, then off to the dump for eagle viewing.....
What a day!
We are delighted at our good fortune to be here. The Islands and Ocean’s Visitor’s Center is a beautiful, state of the art facility shared with the Kachemak Bay Research Reserve (one of 25 in the National Estuarine Research Reserve system), both of which are staffed with outstanding biologists. We have learned an amazing amount from them this past week and will have the benefit of these fabulous resource people for the next three months! No way to share it all, but one of the highlights was an hour on invasive species and the biologists’ incredible preparation to eradicate egg and bird-eating rats from several of the islands which previously provided safe rookeries for all sorts of shore and sea birds until rats were inadvertently introduced by sailing ships years ago.
In addition to “in house” orientation, we toured the spit and docks where we saw halibut being off loaded (Homer is the Halibut capitol of the world). We were privileged to have Captain Billy Pepper give us a tour of the Maritime National Wildlife Refuge’s (NWR) research ship, the Tiglax (TEKH-lah - Aleut for eagle) which has a proud history of 20 years sailing for science. He is preparing (huge logistical and nautical challenges) to take all the field biologists’s to their arduous summer work sites at isolated islands along the Aleutian chain. He, like everyone we have met, is a most capable man who is very serious about his work but in possession of a great sense of humor. I am both proud and humbled to be among those who will represent these dedicated people and interpret their work to the thousands of visitors who will flock here this summer. What an amazing opportunity.
In the bunkhouse we have been joined by several NWR transients and another full time volunteer, Elizabeth, who is a good humored, energetic 70 yo UU, widow of a biologist, retired teacher and artist, who tent camped around Alaska with a friend last summer and decided she wanted to try volunteering this year. We will have two more field biologists joining us this week until they sail on the Tiglax and second wave of volunteers will come in June.
Oh, I’ve finally seen a moose, in fact three, all cows! They have come down into town to graze where the snow melts earlier, and to give birth. We see one daily from our second story perch but give her wide berth as the females are “edgy” just prior to and after giving birth. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to believe this is real!
Finally, I am so impressed by the NWR system and mission that I encourage you to give yourself a treat by exploring some refuges this summer! Since many of you live in MD, PA and NM, I’ll list those. MD - Patuxent Research refuge, Laurel; Blackwater and Martin in Cambridge; and Eastern Neck in Rock Hall, MD. NM - Bosque del Apache and Sevilleta, Socorro; Bitter Lake, Roswell; San Andres, Las Cruces; Las Vegas and Maxwell in towns of the same name and Grulla near Muleshoe, TX. PA - Erie in Guys Mills and John Heinz at Tinicum, Philadelphia.
Today’s snow, however, is beautiful and we’ve enjoyed a long exploratory walk around town with breakfast in a local café, birding in the slough beside the visitors center where we were delighted to see the sandhill crane pair who have been there off and on this week and may be the same two who fledged two colts there last year, then off to the dump for eagle viewing.....
What a day!
We are delighted at our good fortune to be here. The Islands and Ocean’s Visitor’s Center is a beautiful, state of the art facility shared with the Kachemak Bay Research Reserve (one of 25 in the National Estuarine Research Reserve system), both of which are staffed with outstanding biologists. We have learned an amazing amount from them this past week and will have the benefit of these fabulous resource people for the next three months! No way to share it all, but one of the highlights was an hour on invasive species and the biologists’ incredible preparation to eradicate egg and bird-eating rats from several of the islands which previously provided safe rookeries for all sorts of shore and sea birds until rats were inadvertently introduced by sailing ships years ago.
In addition to “in house” orientation, we toured the spit and docks where we saw halibut being off loaded (Homer is the Halibut capitol of the world). We were privileged to have Captain Billy Pepper give us a tour of the Maritime National Wildlife Refuge’s (NWR) research ship, the Tiglax (TEKH-lah - Aleut for eagle) which has a proud history of 20 years sailing for science. He is preparing (huge logistical and nautical challenges) to take all the field biologists’s to their arduous summer work sites at isolated islands along the Aleutian chain. He, like everyone we have met, is a most capable man who is very serious about his work but in possession of a great sense of humor. I am both proud and humbled to be among those who will represent these dedicated people and interpret their work to the thousands of visitors who will flock here this summer. What an amazing opportunity.
In the bunkhouse we have been joined by several NWR transients and another full time volunteer, Elizabeth, who is a good humored, energetic 70 yo UU, widow of a biologist, retired teacher and artist, who tent camped around Alaska with a friend last summer and decided she wanted to try volunteering this year. We will have two more field biologists joining us this week until they sail on the Tiglax and second wave of volunteers will come in June.
Oh, I’ve finally seen a moose, in fact three, all cows! They have come down into town to graze where the snow melts earlier, and to give birth. We see one daily from our second story perch but give her wide berth as the females are “edgy” just prior to and after giving birth. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to believe this is real!
Finally, I am so impressed by the NWR system and mission that I encourage you to give yourself a treat by exploring some refuges this summer! Since many of you live in MD, PA and NM, I’ll list those. MD - Patuxent Research refuge, Laurel; Blackwater and Martin in Cambridge; and Eastern Neck in Rock Hall, MD. NM - Bosque del Apache and Sevilleta, Socorro; Bitter Lake, Roswell; San Andres, Las Cruces; Las Vegas and Maxwell in towns of the same name and Grulla near Muleshoe, TX. PA - Erie in Guys Mills and John Heinz at Tinicum, Philadelphia.
Monday, April 21, 2008
We made it and are now at home in Homer, Alaska, also known as “the end of the road,” because the Sterling Highway is literally the ending of paved roads in Alaska. It's the tip of the Kenai peninsula about 250 miles south of Anchorage, as far as you can travel south of Anchorage without a boat. and it's within a few miles of the western most point of the North American continental landmass.
On the afternoon of April 15th, under cloudy skies - our 5th day of episodic snow and rain which occluded most of what all the guide books reported to be “some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska” - we reported to the Maritime National Refuge. We had been driving and seeking overnight accommodation in difficult conditions (sometimes bordering on white-out in the high mountain passes - accompanying photos really are in color) for four days and were weary to say the least. The tension of those days was broken at intervals by glimpses of wet eagles in stoic acceptance, dramatic mountains occasionally erupting from the clouds in “sun breaks,” large mountain goats with shaggy white coats and sleeker Dall sheep scattered on spectacularly steep slopes, and a herd of caribou crossing the deserted, snow covered road in front of us. (I continue to look in vain for moose even though locals say the caribou heard was a much rarer sighting.)
Checking in, we received keys and were directed to “the bunkhouse,” gratefully unoccupied upon our arrival which gave us an opportunity to select the one room with bathroom on the bay side of the walk up. It was initially disheartening in it’s heavily used, messy state but, as we cleaned and rearranged, it has become a comfortable “home” and we delight in views of Kachemak Bay and dramatic snow-covered mountains rising from the Alaska peninsula on the far shore. (It is this peninsula that, leads into the crescent of the Aleutian Island chain.) The weather has also improved and, although a general haze remains, the winds are down, it is dry and temperatures are a balmy 30+ degrees, expecting to hit 50 this weekend! Amazing how quickly one becomes acclimated - we are really excited about these high temperatures! Yesterday, in the low 40's we walked a bike path the length of the 4.5 mile Homer spit and discovered a lovely little restaurant where we enjoyed delicate, locally caught Halibut tacos ( actually more burrito-like). The sea and shorebirds have not yet arrived but eagles were everywhere, flying and perching on masts in the harbor, driftwood on the beach and any elevated post. They continue to awe and delight us but are in danger of seeming more and more like glorified sea gulls! The walk was great until the final grueling mile of the return trip - my lower limbs protested mightily.
More to share as we explore and begin our work here....
On the afternoon of April 15th, under cloudy skies - our 5th day of episodic snow and rain which occluded most of what all the guide books reported to be “some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska” - we reported to the Maritime National Refuge. We had been driving and seeking overnight accommodation in difficult conditions (sometimes bordering on white-out in the high mountain passes - accompanying photos really are in color) for four days and were weary to say the least. The tension of those days was broken at intervals by glimpses of wet eagles in stoic acceptance, dramatic mountains occasionally erupting from the clouds in “sun breaks,” large mountain goats with shaggy white coats and sleeker Dall sheep scattered on spectacularly steep slopes, and a herd of caribou crossing the deserted, snow covered road in front of us. (I continue to look in vain for moose even though locals say the caribou heard was a much rarer sighting.)
Checking in, we received keys and were directed to “the bunkhouse,” gratefully unoccupied upon our arrival which gave us an opportunity to select the one room with bathroom on the bay side of the walk up. It was initially disheartening in it’s heavily used, messy state but, as we cleaned and rearranged, it has become a comfortable “home” and we delight in views of Kachemak Bay and dramatic snow-covered mountains rising from the Alaska peninsula on the far shore. (It is this peninsula that, leads into the crescent of the Aleutian Island chain.) The weather has also improved and, although a general haze remains, the winds are down, it is dry and temperatures are a balmy 30+ degrees, expecting to hit 50 this weekend! Amazing how quickly one becomes acclimated - we are really excited about these high temperatures! Yesterday, in the low 40's we walked a bike path the length of the 4.5 mile Homer spit and discovered a lovely little restaurant where we enjoyed delicate, locally caught Halibut tacos ( actually more burrito-like). The sea and shorebirds have not yet arrived but eagles were everywhere, flying and perching on masts in the harbor, driftwood on the beach and any elevated post. They continue to awe and delight us but are in danger of seeming more and more like glorified sea gulls! The walk was great until the final grueling mile of the return trip - my lower limbs protested mightily.
More to share as we explore and begin our work here....
Monday, April 14, 2008
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Juneau, Alaska's state capitol
Juneau - the awesome Mendenhall glacier, discoveries on the shore at low tide, a lovely museum, eagle encounters ( what a thrill to see an eagle diving on a sea otter in a failed attempt to steal the otter’s fish!) and a serendipitous folk festival which we enjoyed with some great people we met en route: Jim, a Juneau artist who provided helpful suggestions for our time there and introduced us to halibut burritos; Bill and Betty, professionals from Fairbanks who contra dance and play hot flute and fiddle; and Morgan Fawcett, a native Alaskan wood flute player who performs to raise money for children effected by fetal alcohol syndrome as he was.
This post includes another sampling of photo impressions from Juneau.
This post includes another sampling of photo impressions from Juneau.
Ferrying the Inside Passage
Our journey north along the inside passage held wonders, many of which couldn’t be captured with a camera lens, but a sampling of which (Sandra’s perspective) follows this post .
The inside passage, perhaps the longest fjord in the world, is comprised of the mainland (Canada then Alaska) and islands of all sizes, some of rocky prominence and others, indistinguishable from the mainland with snow-frosted pines framing dramatic mountain peaks seen through mysterious clouds (think the Lord of the Rings) and occasionally dramatized by “sun breaks.” Hugging the shore in the rain forests of the mountains and islands, were small fishing towns and Native villages. We took just over a week for the passage, disembarking at Ketchican, Wrangell and Juneau. We experienced everything from warm sunshine to rain to snow and sleet along the way. But enough - I’ll let the photos speak.....
The inside passage, perhaps the longest fjord in the world, is comprised of the mainland (Canada then Alaska) and islands of all sizes, some of rocky prominence and others, indistinguishable from the mainland with snow-frosted pines framing dramatic mountain peaks seen through mysterious clouds (think the Lord of the Rings) and occasionally dramatized by “sun breaks.” Hugging the shore in the rain forests of the mountains and islands, were small fishing towns and Native villages. We took just over a week for the passage, disembarking at Ketchican, Wrangell and Juneau. We experienced everything from warm sunshine to rain to snow and sleet along the way. But enough - I’ll let the photos speak.....
That's me watching an eagle
Hi, Sandra has a case of blog fever and is doing most of the posting. I'm happy just enjoying the trip. She's also getting pretty good with a camera as you can see. Here's a shot she took as I was enthralled with watching a Bald Eagle studying the ocean in search of a meal. Thte poem is one of my favorites and says it all. Enjoy
Sunday, April 6, 2008
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leaving the lower 48
Leaving CA and the Redwoods behind we continued north along the coast highway and camped in rain forests within good hikes of rugged, heavily driftwood-laden beaches. Beautiful, damp and cold - around 30 degrees both nights - although we’ve been extremely fortunate not to camp in heavy downpours. We rate Oregon’s as the loveliest, most private campgrounds with the nicest BR/shower facilities. In northern Oregon we also visited several historical sites related to the Lewis and Clark expedition which placed our adventure and ideas of "roughing it" into a different perspective. Theirs was an awesome journey with many hardships, the success of which was in good part related to the assistance they received from Native Americans whose nations they crossed.
Humbled by Lewis and Clark’s fortitude, breadth of knowledge in the natural sciences and geography, we crossed into Washington, again following the coast and stopping at intervals to hike quiet, padded trails of the Olympic rain forest discovering a few waterfall; to appreciate picturesque lighthouses and to visit both the Dungeness Spit and Willaca (?sp.)National Wildlife Refuges. Although further north and traveling among snow covered mountains, Spring is still in evidence with Robins, songbirds and paired ducks and shorebirds, budding trees and blossoming skunk cabbage ( beautiful yellow calla lily- like flowers) in the bogs.
Yesterday we boarded the Matanuska for the first leg of our marine highway passage along the Canadian coast to Alaska. It’s really happening - the scenery is beautiful and this morning we saw our first whale - hard to believe but it’s happening! "Home" now is an all metal stateroom with bunk beds. No connection here but will post later. WOW!!
Humbled by Lewis and Clark’s fortitude, breadth of knowledge in the natural sciences and geography, we crossed into Washington, again following the coast and stopping at intervals to hike quiet, padded trails of the Olympic rain forest discovering a few waterfall; to appreciate picturesque lighthouses and to visit both the Dungeness Spit and Willaca (?sp.)National Wildlife Refuges. Although further north and traveling among snow covered mountains, Spring is still in evidence with Robins, songbirds and paired ducks and shorebirds, budding trees and blossoming skunk cabbage ( beautiful yellow calla lily- like flowers) in the bogs.
Yesterday we boarded the Matanuska for the first leg of our marine highway passage along the Canadian coast to Alaska. It’s really happening - the scenery is beautiful and this morning we saw our first whale - hard to believe but it’s happening! "Home" now is an all metal stateroom with bunk beds. No connection here but will post later. WOW!!
Friday, April 4, 2008
Home Away From Home and Redwoods
"Home" has come to be so many different things since we've been traveling two months with more on the horizon. It's consistently the little Honda Civic hybrid, and variably: volunteer housing - that lovely lake front house in Nebraska, our little summer tent (which, in northern CA, Oregon and Washington was much too summery) , a "tent cabin" ( new concept to me), various motels and, starting later this afternoon, a small ferry "stateroom" in which we will start our trip up the Inland Marine Passage to Alaska. Makes one reconsider the concept of home and to realize that this amazing journey is increasingly an internal one as well.
In this post, I shall include some photos of "home" as well as of the Redwoods.
These ancient trees touched me deeply. Not just their enormous size and age, but their magnificent presence. Like a revered sage, these trees seemed to have much to teach. I began to be aware that they share their life journeys ( some up to 2,000 years) through their structures - bending to the forces of wind; scarred and hollowed by intervals of raging forest fire yet persisting via protected resources; disfigured with beryls whose rapid overgrowth may have been stimulated by disease or other stress, those beryls then becoming a new source of growth. And finally, in death they become a nursery for new life so their species (and the many other species of fauna and flora they host in symbiotic relationship) may continue. Their root systems are relatively shallow for their great heights but are intertwined, the whole giving more strength to each individual within the grove. Their bark can be 1-2 feet in thickness which helps explain their ability to survive fire and their resistance to insects. I was awed by these beautiful trees in their still, peaceful world, and by their testament to interdependence, endurance and survival. Words and photographs fail.
In this post, I shall include some photos of "home" as well as of the Redwoods.
These ancient trees touched me deeply. Not just their enormous size and age, but their magnificent presence. Like a revered sage, these trees seemed to have much to teach. I began to be aware that they share their life journeys ( some up to 2,000 years) through their structures - bending to the forces of wind; scarred and hollowed by intervals of raging forest fire yet persisting via protected resources; disfigured with beryls whose rapid overgrowth may have been stimulated by disease or other stress, those beryls then becoming a new source of growth. And finally, in death they become a nursery for new life so their species (and the many other species of fauna and flora they host in symbiotic relationship) may continue. Their root systems are relatively shallow for their great heights but are intertwined, the whole giving more strength to each individual within the grove. Their bark can be 1-2 feet in thickness which helps explain their ability to survive fire and their resistance to insects. I was awed by these beautiful trees in their still, peaceful world, and by their testament to interdependence, endurance and survival. Words and photographs fail.
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Correction & Additions
Adding photos: the California coast, vivid California poppies that brightened roadsides and hills all along our drive, and a bull elephant seal.
Also posting a photo sampling of our tour of William Randolph Hurst's "enchanted castle," an architectural marvel on a beautiful, isolated hilltop housing his fabulous collection of statuary, tapestries and art. (Interesting aside - his architect, Julia Morgan was, like her turn-of-the-century peer, Mary Colter who built the harmonious structures in the Grand Canyon, an incredibly talented woman/pioneer in traditionally male field.) The first is a view of the "castle" from the long, winding drive, the next a bit of detail on a facade of carved teak over marble, and the third an alcove of one of the intricately tiled pools. All was donated to the state of California following his death.
Corrections from Nebraska postings: The correct spelling of the Prairie Chicken's courtship and breeding ground is lek. The full name of the Canadian artist/author/environmentalist who wrote Thinking Like A Mountain is Robert Bateman. And while I'm at it, I want to recommend two other books - Michael Forsberg's On Ancient Wings - a great overview of the Sandhill Crane's life and migration from Siberia and Alaska to the southern US and Mexico beautifully illustrated by his outstanding photographs, and Dan O'Brien's Buffalo for the Broken Heart, a good first-person story and introduction to the ecology of the tall grass plains.
Also posting a photo sampling of our tour of William Randolph Hurst's "enchanted castle," an architectural marvel on a beautiful, isolated hilltop housing his fabulous collection of statuary, tapestries and art. (Interesting aside - his architect, Julia Morgan was, like her turn-of-the-century peer, Mary Colter who built the harmonious structures in the Grand Canyon, an incredibly talented woman/pioneer in traditionally male field.) The first is a view of the "castle" from the long, winding drive, the next a bit of detail on a facade of carved teak over marble, and the third an alcove of one of the intricately tiled pools. All was donated to the state of California following his death.
Corrections from Nebraska postings: The correct spelling of the Prairie Chicken's courtship and breeding ground is lek. The full name of the Canadian artist/author/environmentalist who wrote Thinking Like A Mountain is Robert Bateman. And while I'm at it, I want to recommend two other books - Michael Forsberg's On Ancient Wings - a great overview of the Sandhill Crane's life and migration from Siberia and Alaska to the southern US and Mexico beautifully illustrated by his outstanding photographs, and Dan O'Brien's Buffalo for the Broken Heart, a good first-person story and introduction to the ecology of the tall grass plains.
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