Monday, April 21, 2008

We made it and are now at home in Homer, Alaska, also known as “the end of the road,” because the Sterling Highway is literally the ending of paved roads in Alaska. It's the tip of the Kenai peninsula about 250 miles south of Anchorage, as far as you can travel south of Anchorage without a boat. and it's within a few miles of the western most point of the North American continental landmass.

On the afternoon of April 15th, under cloudy skies - our 5th day of episodic snow and rain which occluded most of what all the guide books reported to be “some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska” - we reported to the Maritime National Refuge. We had been driving and seeking overnight accommodation in difficult conditions (sometimes bordering on white-out in the high mountain passes - accompanying photos really are in color) for four days and were weary to say the least. The tension of those days was broken at intervals by glimpses of wet eagles in stoic acceptance, dramatic mountains occasionally erupting from the clouds in “sun breaks,” large mountain goats with shaggy white coats and sleeker Dall sheep scattered on spectacularly steep slopes, and a herd of caribou crossing the deserted, snow covered road in front of us. (I continue to look in vain for moose even though locals say the caribou heard was a much rarer sighting.)

Checking in, we received keys and were directed to “the bunkhouse,” gratefully unoccupied upon our arrival which gave us an opportunity to select the one room with bathroom on the bay side of the walk up. It was initially disheartening in it’s heavily used, messy state but, as we cleaned and rearranged, it has become a comfortable “home” and we delight in views of Kachemak Bay and dramatic snow-covered mountains rising from the Alaska peninsula on the far shore. (It is this peninsula that, leads into the crescent of the Aleutian Island chain.) The weather has also improved and, although a general haze remains, the winds are down, it is dry and temperatures are a balmy 30+ degrees, expecting to hit 50 this weekend! Amazing how quickly one becomes acclimated - we are really excited about these high temperatures! Yesterday, in the low 40's we walked a bike path the length of the 4.5 mile Homer spit and discovered a lovely little restaurant where we enjoyed delicate, locally caught Halibut tacos ( actually more burrito-like). The sea and shorebirds have not yet arrived but eagles were everywhere, flying and perching on masts in the harbor, driftwood on the beach and any elevated post. They continue to awe and delight us but are in danger of seeming more and more like glorified sea gulls! The walk was great until the final grueling mile of the return trip - my lower limbs protested mightily.

More to share as we explore and begin our work here....

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